Carnivale

This past week marked Maslenitsa, the Russian version of the traditional pre-Lenten bacchanal. Most cultures have something like this festival in principle, but watching how they proceed can tell us a lot about the locals.

All good pre-Lent festivals include a healthy dose of the things that are proscribed during the coming 40 days. Interestingly, the holiday here also retains elements of ancient pagan celebrations. The original celebration was a sun-worship festival, so the traditional food is blini, for their sun-like shape and color. At the end, an effigy of a female figure is burned on the last day to help the flax harvest.

Or something like that. I’m a bit shaky on the historical precedents for all the elements of the holiday. And to be honest, it probably doesn’t even matter to most of the locals either. It’s simply a great excuse to get out of the house and have some fun.

I headed out to Kolomenskoe for the festivities. The enormous park was crowded with people eating, drinking, dancing, attending concerts, sledding, skiing, playing games and just plain enjoying themselves. It’s hard not to get into the spirit of things when surrounded with so much revelry.

I stood on a long line at one of the many blini stands. By the time I reached the front, I had resolved to really indulge in the spirit of maslenitsa; so I ordered a blini stuffed with an entire can of red caviar. Washed down with a large cup of mead, it was a wonderful experience.

Later, we sat at picnic tables and ordered a couple of beers. Drinking beer in 15 degree weather has its advantages and disadvantages. An advantage is that the beer never warms up – it remains frosty down to the very last sip. The disadvantage, however, is that the beer never warms up – you’ve now ingested near freezing liquid into the core of your body.

This didn’t bother any of the Russians, of course, who carried on as though the deep snow and biting cold were simply not even there. This park in the summertime is an absolutely wonderful place for relaxation and celebrating. And it struck me, as I looked around, that it was the exact same scene in the winter. Change the clothing, and the sledding, and it would be indistinguishable.

All of which says something, it seems, about Russians and their culture and their attitude to adversity. Or more to the point: their attitude about having fun. Folks here work hard, and struggle and strain to make their way. But when its time to relax and enjoy time with friends and family, they attack the task with a special zeal. And they’ll ignore everything else – all their tribulations, and suffering, and difficulties – while they’re doing it.

It’s a huge part of what makes living in Russia a true pleasure. After all, our problems will still be there, waiting for us, tomorrow.