Monday, April 17, 2006

Russia and Foreigners

Being outside the US is gives another perspective on things and makes people react in perhaps different ways. Take the recent demonstrations about the immigrant question, for instance. Now, when some Russians meet me they look at me straight in the eyes and say, with feeling, "You know, we have a similar problem here."

A Moscow cab driver was one such example. I hailed him last week and had quite an opportunity to chat as we sat in gridlock. He brought up the demonstrations in the US and talked about race in general. "I saw a street scene there. So many blacks," he said, using a not-so-pleasant catch all phrase for moderately to completely dark-complected people.
"Well," I said, "That's our history and our way of life."
"Who said that's bad?" he retorted. "Not me."

But his sense of moderation began to dissipate as he strayed onto the subject of Muslims. He enumerated the demographic changes in Kosovo over the past 100 years leading to a total inversion in the present day - before moving on to Russian muslims. "Ahhh, these Muslims," he said, "they multiply like cockroaches."

On the train to Ulan Ude I had a long, interesting talk with my cabin mates - a really wonderful older couple. I asked them about the increasing Chinese presence here. "There's about 10x more of then now than 5 years ago according to my friend in the police," Nikolai said. "And that's only the officially registered ones." His wife agreed and noted their presence in the markets and said that, in general, they're everywhere. "They're like, like - I don't know - (wait for it, wait for it) - like cockroaches."

To be fair, there are a lot of Chinese on this side of the border. And the Russians are well aware of their demographic state. In particular, they're aware of what it could mean in a few years time - minority status in their own country.

The Russian suspicion about foreigners is in large part the basis their for laws and culture. They're generally suspicious of my presence, but polite and tolerant. There have been notable exceptions, of course; but the standard question in Russian for finding out where someone is from is the charmingly phrased "Tell me, please, where you are from if it is not a secret."

All serious countries need immigration. Perhaps the Russians should even be flattered that others would want to come here. Maybe they should take it as a reflection of their improved living standards and economy. But in either case it's clear that Russia has a problem. I'm just not sure whether it's with immigrants or with cockroaches.

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