Moscow Orientation – Day 16 – Regional Trip

Today, our first meeting was with the local party leadership of the United Russia party, the largest political organization in Russia, and basically the ruling party. It was created to support the policies of the state, so it enjoys a strange relationship with the official organs of power; many leaders are supported by it and support it in turn, but are not necessarily members. For example, it’s rabidly pro-Putin but the president himself is not a member.

We got a warm greeting in their offices that share a hallway with a judo club. They were very cordial and warm, and our host explained some of the local organizations structure and its goals regarding living standards, youth, education, etc. And then things started getting strange. In response to nearly every question, the local chairman of the party went of on a neo-fascist tirade of invective against nearly everything you could imagine. In particular, though, he went on and on about the need for Russia to be a strong state in response to the fascist states on its borders, including but certainly not limited to Estonia and Ukraine. His own party members in the room were groaning and gasping in response to his statements. I wanted to get the hell out of there faster than I’ve ever wanted out of a meeting.

Next, we went to the parliament building where we were scheduled to meet with the local media. We were greeted by the minister of culture and press, who escorted us into the city council chambers. The room was set up like the house of commons, and on one side sat about 20 reporters. We sat on the opposite side, and listened attentively to the greeting from the speaker of the chamber. The media began asking us questions and we answered. Some questions were strange and excessively broad – what do you think of globalization? But most questions were quite good – what impressions do you have of Russia, good and bad?

I leaned forward, clicked on my microphone, and enthusiastically noted that we all have positive impressions of Russia; the image we get in the US differs substantially from the image you learn when you arrive. But, It’s a question that I turned back around at the journalists. I noted that I had lived in Kaliningrad, where everyone said that it wasn’t the real Russia, more like former Germany. Now, I live in Moscow where everyone says that it differs too much from the rest of the country to be considered Russia. I know the phenomenon well, I said, since I live in Manhattan; a small island in the Atlantic Ocean not far from America. That got a big laugh. So, I asked, have I finally found the real Russia here in Chuvashia? A big difference of opinion – the senior aide to the minister, who had been sitting behind me shouted out that Chuvashia is the heart of Russia. But a journalist across from me told me that I needed to keep looking.

Time ran out just as things were getting good, and we were ushered off to lunch and then the mayor’s office. As we entered the large official conference room, Nathan asked me to join him in the hallway. He introduced me to a reporter for the local television station, and told me that she wanted to ask a few questions. I agreed, but only if he stuck around in case I got myself into trouble. On went the camera and the floodlight, and I was on TV. What did I think of the investment climate in Chuvashia? What advantages does the Republic have?

In general, I was positive about their chances. The region is tops in education, has high tech industry, good infrastructure, responsible leadership, a lack of ethnic or religious strife, etc. Anyway, she thanked me and then asked for my name and background. When I told her the whole equity analyst profession, she got really excited; she was quite happy that she stumbled across what could be construed as an informed, professional opinion. I guess my odds of getting on TV increased.

The meeting with the mayor was quite good. He told us about their efforts to support small business in the city, as well as clean up the town. They decided a few years ago to eliminate kiosks and force all businesses inside. It’s worked pretty well, the town is clean and neat, and many buildings have been renovated to supply retail space. Anyway, a great conversation.

That about wrapped up our stay in Cheboksary. We checked out of the hotel, and had dinner near the train station before our trip back to Moscow. But just when you think things are going to be uneventful in Russia, they begin to take strange turns.

The senior aide to the President of the Republic was on the train and came and greeted us. He’s probably in his late thirties, short but powerfully built, blond hair with strange glasses frames that look like a Russian attempt at hip german eyewear. He’s a really
friendly guy, and a hell of a character. He was our host on our first vodka-soaked night. As tamada, or toast master, he dictated who would give the next toast. At one point he did the Cossack dance, and at another point he did his impression of a “human beat box” in rap style. For several minutes. Hilarious and strange.

He had that day’s paper with him – and there was a front page article about our delegation to Cheboksary. The facts were correct, but two quotes they used were completely fabricated. One guy who supposedly said one statement had to ask other people what it meant since it had several words he didn’t understand. Another quote was attributed to one lady who hasn’t opened her mouth in an official meeting since arriving in Russia. Still, we all agreed that the sentiment was largely correct even if the journalistic ethics were abhorrent.

Well, we treated Dima (the Advisor) to a few beers. That’s when somehow we stumbled across the knowledge that he’s a, well, folk chiropractor - for lack of a better term. He cracked everyone’s back and neck, and then healed Jim’s long-aching arm. I immediately felt better after the treatment. He invited us back to Cheboksary for any necessary follow up adjustments.