Tobolsk

Tobolsk was once a very important city, but it hasn't been for a very long time. A day's walk around town will provide all the evidence necessary to support that belief.

The city was once the frontline of expansion of the Russian state. But as time went on, the frontier moved further east and with it the trade and administrative functions that had enriched it.

The northern part of the city is divided into 'micro regions', basically blocks of soviet buildings in clusters along a broad avenue. The boulevard leads right to the Kremlin complex, and impressive collection of cathedrals and towers on a high bluff overlooking the plain along the Irtysh River. At the bottom of the bluff lies the old town - a devastated wreck of a place that looks like some hostile army sped through on its way somewhere more important. The wooden buildings that aren't slowly sinking into the mud have been left as burned out shells. The old town is a very bleak place.

But Tobolsk is trying. The Kremlin is a major restoration site and if initial results are any hint it will be an extraordinary spot when they're done. Even in the old town, some of the most hopeless buildings have official blue signs indicating imminent reconstruction. Most of the many dilapidated churches in town are in similar states.

It'll take time and alot of money, but if Tobolsk can pull it off it'll be a very special place indeed.

Speaking of special places, the Slavyanskaya Hotel here is worthy of note. It's Siberia's first 4-star hotel or something like that. More importantly, it feels like the 4 star hotel that gets built before anyone is sure whether they need a 4 star hotel. Every amenity and luxury imaginable - all just a little bit under-utilized. The fountains in the elevator lobby on every floor have been converted to flower beds. Long hallways have no lights on - the guests all seem clustered in a certain wing. But still, it's really very nice; it's just something you'd expect to find on a highway in Maryland rather than in the middle of Soviet apartment blocks.

It's all very shocking to me. As I laid in bed and soaked in the ridiculous luxury of it all - at a numbingly cheap $70, too - I was jolted out of my post-banya torpor by the phone. "Wouldn't you like the company of a pleasant young lady?" the voice on the phone asked. Well, sure I would. Who wouldn't like company? Oh...you mean.....ohhhhhhhh.

I get pretty lonely on the road all by myself - but not that lonely. Anyway, one more star for the Slavyanskaya Hotel!