Kazan

For a variety of reasons, I've always wanted to come to Kazan. It has a long history, a different ethnic background, a long reputation as an important provincial capital, and an intriguing modern story of politics and oil. After spending my first day here, I'm happy to say that it was well worth the wait.

Kazan has a massive kremlin complex that is still the administrative heart of the Republic of Tatarstan - an oil-rich region. As such, its in immaculate condition; its monuments, office buildings, new art galleries, and presidential palace. It also has a sparkling new mosque, too, replacing the one destroyed by Ivan the Terrible in 1552 when he captured the city.

Much of the city has the same feeling of careful renovation, too. The main pedestrian street is an architects dream of styles. And its being extended in both directions in a massive civic project. Its lined with nice shops and great cafes. Being here on one of the first warm days and watching the fountains get turned on - the city, in general, waking up - is a special time.

The city obviously has the stamp of a very firm hand on it. The president of the republic is a rather strong ruler with a rather strict style of governance - a privelege he seems to have won from Moscow after dropping independence claims in the early 1990's. The government is not averse to spending its petro dollars on grand projects of his design. Its obvious everywhere - condemned buildings, new buildings, a new metro system, new streets in new neighborhoods, the feeling that anything can be accomplished anywhere in town.

But while that means renovation for much of the city center, sometimes history is a poor match for such outsized grandeur. Kazan celebrated its 850th anniversary about 20 years ago. Last year, to match its new wealth and power and status, the anniversary was upped to 1000 years. Archaeologists assure everyone that the historical record has been filled in considerably in the intervening years. But just getting a look at this newly gorgeous city gives the feeling that everything is possibly subject to a convenient facelift if necessary.